The first time I ate spaghetti vongole was almost 40 years ago. It was memorable for 2 reasons. It was absolutely delicious and I ate it in Naples, by the sea, with Castel Dell’Ovo as my view. While we were eating, a cherubic gentleman serenaded us by playing Volare on his violin.
I am in Naples now and I just had to go back to do it again.
Castel Dell’Ovo means egg castle. It got it’s name because the Roman Poet Virgil, who also practiced sorcery, hid an egg in the basement of the castle. The place where the egg was kept was heavily locked because “all the facts and the future of Castle Marino” depended on the egg. The Normans and later the Angiovines, turned it into a military fortress, as it stands today.
I had no idea where the restaurant from 40 years ago would be, so I just wandered around until I spotted one with great looking seafood on display.
Massimo, the waiter suggested I try some mixed seafood as a starter. How could I refuse?
Then it was time for the spaghetti vongole.
It was as good as I remembered. I won’t be waiting another 40 years to come back to Naples.
Look for Massimo at Ristorante del Borgo in the little square on Castel dell’Ovo
The guide books say that newly married couples like to have photographs taken at the castle. Of course I saw a happy couple posing as I crossed the walkway. I had to go back the next day as I had forgotten to get the name of the restaurant, which is why these photos are taken in the middle of the day.
Why wouldn’t you, when this is the backdrop?
Inside the castle there is a large painting of the area in it’s heyday. Naples must have looked amazing to those sailing into the bay at the time.
No doubt modern adventurers who arrive in the huge cruise ships that line the harbour are still impressed.